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Two days after
returning from a trip to the island nation of Malta, I rushed out and
rented a 1941 black-and-white classic from my neighborhood video store. I
couldn't wait to feed the cassette into the VCR. As the vintage movie
unfolded, Sam Spade (played by Humphrey Bogart) encountered a beautiful
and cunning femme fatale and a motley crew of bad guys who all lusted for
the same legendary figurine, a gem-encrusted golden bird of prey known as
"The Maltese Falcon." According to the old film someone stole the
priceless objet d'art from a treasure galleon off the coast of
Spain in 1539. For 400 years the idol-like creature left a messy trail of
death and destruction in its wake as one greedy thief after another
wrestled the plunder into his possession, then lost it.
Dashiell
Hammett, the author of the detective novel upon which the famous motion
picture was based, spun a great tale. In reality no precious,
jewel-covered winged figure ever existed. However, the Maltese falcon is
not a figment of a novelist's imagination. Such an creature actually did
exist and it played an important role in the history of the Mediterranean.
Location, Location, Location
The Maltese
archipelago lies in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea between Italy and
northern Africa. The chain is situated about 60 miles south of Sicily and
180 miles east of Tunisia, and it straddles the 36th parallel. The tiny
nation is composed of three inhabited islands (Malta, Gozo and Comino) and
three islets, or big rocks (Cominotto, Filfla and St. Paul's Island). In
satellite images the fragments of land look like crumbs that have fallen
off their huge Sicilian neighbor.
Many cultures have coveted the
small chain of islands. Due to their strategic location, Malta and her two
small sisters, have been the targets of a long succession of invaders and
conquerors, including Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, French, Arabs
and Turks. To this list of intruders add hordes of pirates of various
nationalities and boatloads of British colonials. And St. Paul, who
survived a shipwreck on the rocks in 60 A.D. and converted the entire
population to Christianity. Each of these gate-crashers contributed an
ingredient to the rich cultural stew that is the modern-day Republic of
Malta.
Powerful Crusaders
Indisputably the most potent
influence upon the Maltese crossroads was exerted by a group of crusading,
hospital-building, multinational aristocrats known as the Knights of
Malta. The story of this monastic community, originally called "The
Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem," begins long before its
reign in Malta. The religious fraternity was founded in 1099 before the
taking of Jerusalem by the armies of the First Crusade.
Only sons chosen from noble European families of
were offered membership in the exclusive club. As a result of the vast
wealth the rich scions brought with them (and later from extensive
privateering), the group possessed plenty of resources and lots of
prestige.
The wealthy brothers' first order of business was to
build and administer a hospital for pilgrims in the Holy Land. Later the
hospitalers felt obliged to become a military unit. They were needed to
defend crusader territory and to protect pilgrims from bandits and gangs
of marauding infidels. During this period the brotherhood acquired the
status of knighthood.
When the Turks ejected the Knights from
their headquarters in Rhodes in 1522, the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V,
gave his military men the choice of Malta or Tripoli as a new home base.
The Knights didn't like either choice, but they figured no place could be
less hospitable than hot dry Tripoli – they opted for Malta.
The Knights' Rule
In 1530 Charles deeded the Maltese islands
to the grand masters in return for a symbolic annual rent of one live
bird, a Maltese falcon, which was to be presented yearly to the emperor's
viceroy in Sicily. The tribute represented the role the Knights played for
Christendom – they served as protective "birds of prey" for the empire.
The religious warriors ruled the Maltese archipelago for 268 years
and, in the process, they transformed the small island country. Evidence
of the industrious Knights' occupation can be seen everywhere, but most
noticeably in the gorgeously carved and faceted architecture of the
islands' cities, towns and villages.
Massive stone-walled citadels
and battlements, impressive turreted basilicas, and charming, narrow-laned
hamlets crown Malta's many hills. Most were built in the 16th century by
these authentic knights in shining armor. Multitudes of Maltese crosses,
the eight-pointed emblem of the order, were chiseled into golden limestone
surfaces, putting the Knights' stamp on the place for all time.
Opulent Palaces
Although the Knights
took vows of chastity, obedience and poverty, they became slackers over
the years. The grand masters lived in princely luxury in castle-like
headquarters called auberges. These luxurious palaces were segregated into
eight nationalities (Provence, Auvergne, Aragon, Castille, Leon, Italy,
Germany, and England) and were designed and decorated to reflect the
homeland culture of the Knights who lived there. No English duke or French
viscount lived in more a more splendid style than a grand master of Malta.
The imposing, historically-significant residences still dominate
the cityscape of Valetta, although now they function as government
buildings. For example, the Auberge de Castille et Leon is now the prime
minister's residence and the National Museum of Archeology is housed in
what was once the Auberge de Provence.
The Grandest Master of
Them All
The most famous Grand Master was Jean de La
Vallette, who is credited with building the imposing fortress city of
Valetta. The reinforced capital was constructed in a hurry after the
original fortifications just barely fended off an onslaught in 1551 by the
minions of the Turkish sultan (and the Knights' archenemy) Suleiman the
Magnificent. The mighty limestone bastions jut out into the sapphire water
of Grand Harbor like the prows of colossal ships and no one can look upon
them without conjuring up images from children's picture books, of heated
battles between scimitar-wielding, turbaned infidels and mace-bearing
knights clad in mail.
No record exists that supports the notion
that the wealthy Knights showed off in 1539 by having a jeweled bird
fashioned from solid gold, which they sent to the emperor's representative
in a treasure galleon, although Dashiell Hammett's fabrication certainly
thickened the plot of his thriller. In reality, the Maltese falcon was a
living bird of prey which symbolized the power and prowess of the strong
military arm of the Holy Roman Empire, the Knights of Malta. The true
story of Maltese falcon stimulates the imagination, too.
Stephanie Fletcher
has contributed previously to The Cultured Traveler.
 
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